Nothing says celebration like the bursting of a champagne cork. And a trip to Paris offers the opportunity to get a bottle of sparkling special: Champagne Récoltant-manipulant (RM), which is also known as the champagne grower or propriétaire champagne. They produced by small wineries that have often been in families for generations, these handcrafted wines tend to use grapes from a single source and have a pure expression of the terroir intentional flavor reflects the area where they were grown and the grapes are giving the largest producers of renowned a run for their money.
Unlike large houses, which produce large quantities and strive to do the same distinct style of champagne each year varies widely among RM Champagne producers, and even the crops. “It is a true product of the earth,” said Pierre Berot, the wine director at the Taillevent restaurant in Paris icon. “The region has exceptional terroirs and propriétaire champagne allows us to enjoy these extraordinary wines, with all their various differences.”
While RM Champagne is growing in popularity, still only it represents less than 10 percent market share of champagne. And because production is limited, these wines are generally not exported. Fortunately, several wine bars in Paris offer champagne independent producers, both by the bottle or glass. Here are the best places to look for one of these special flutes:
Housed in a 17th-century winery, this wine bar is entirely dedicated to Champagne Récoltant-manipulant. The owner, Fanny Heucq, is the daughter of independent producers of champagne, and she has made her life’s mission to introduce people to the most unusual sparkling wines. The menu of champagnes by the glass spans the four terroirs and large that changes every two weeks for regular have the opportunity to discover new varietals.
he art gallery Grafema, this clean, informal space offers more than 15 labels of champagne grower, with the selection ranging from wide body blanc de noirs in the Montagne de Reims to fruit, full, soft blends Marne Valley. Because this is a cave à manger, bottles are reasonably priced (with the addition of a modest corkage fee), and the food is simple but delicious.
This place is relaxed neighborhood while wine shop and bar, with shelves of bottles lined along the walls and a communal table in the center expanding. A convivial crowd gathers to break open bottles, accompanied by heaping plates of sausages and cheese. There are at least a dozen cellars, some biodynamic producers-usually offered with at least one available by the glass. Friendly and relaxed, this is a great place to gather a group of friends.