This Season Spring Collection By Jil Sander 2015
RODOLFO PAGLIALUNGA now has been three seasons at Jil Sander, stepping in to fill the shoes of the same name designer herself when she left the mark for the third time. Last season was a trip of more confidence of former creative director of Vionnet, following a soft start, but nice, and this season was not a clear move away from the rigidity that has that had come to define the brand, it was nice to see.
It was, gardener, more feminine references for more languid flower pot hats and skirts apron. Silhouettes were soft and fluid, slinky satins and China blue, soft draping obvious track in his days Vionnet. But where was struck in the deconstructed tailoring it felt a bit out of place in a landscape so that he is defending the laptop – a gateway to the wardrobe rail, without adjustments in between.
Rodolfo Paglialunga made such a good feeling in some back-Vionnet enough that his appointment at Jil Sander, the ancient temple of discipline and rigor in contemporary fashion, caused at least one head at seasons.
Perhaps that was so insistent that a deep dive into the archives was no way this collection. But that was precisely defines the work of Jil Sander, that was exactly what was missing here. There were problems of adjustment along. Clunk was probably the best word to the drop-crotch culottes with pockets outside access. Same with apron / skirt wrapped about anything below it, meaning that there was no strange grouping when it was under an elastic waistband.